How Much Paint You Really Need. How much paint you will need to satisfactorily complete a paint project is determined by 2 factors. The first, paint coverage, is a familiar concept to most people. It simply concerns the square footage of surface area to be painted, and "paint coverage calculators" abound on the web. However, the second concept, paint color coverage, has a much more pronounced effect on how much paint will be needed and the cost of paint projects. Unfortunately, paint color coverage is a novel concept to many painters and, in fact, is poorly understood even by many professionals. Knowing the secrets of paint color coverage will allow you to reduce the number coats you have to apply and minimize how much paint you have to buy. The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. Are the contours rough or concealed?
Our next step is mixing the oil paint. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Obviously you will need to buy some paint thinner, but the most important product you will need is Penetrol $12. Take a plastic quart cup that you will be painting out of and fill it up about three quarters with paint. Now mix in a couple of tablespoons of Penetrol and the slightest amount of thinner. Mix it up with a stick real good and you are ready to go. Why Penetrol? This product is the key to a fantastic looking job. Penetrol will not only smooth out the finish it will extend the time (usually about 20 minutes) before the paint starts to get sticky. This will allow you to apply a glass like finish and eliminate brush marks. We are going to apply two coats here as well so don't glob on the paint. When you are painting the door frames get used to the paint and watch your drips. After about ten minutes or so you will get used to how the paint flows and how damn good your finish looks. Allow to dry overnight before apply second coat. Tip: after you apply the second coat remove the tape and don't allow to dry first. You will get a little paint on your hands from the tape, but deal with it. By removing the tape now you will ensure crisp lines. In some case when you allow the second coat to dry you will pull a bit of the oil paint off. It is not common, but in my opinion why take the chance. If a desired shade is not obtainable in custom-or ready-mixed paints, white paints may be tinted with colors-in-oil. To do this, mix the color-in-oil with a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and stir this into the white paint, a little at a time. If a blended color is desired, more than one color may be added, such as a chrome green and chrome yellow pigments to produce a lettuce green shade. Kangra School: Real gold, stone, and water colors are squirrel-hair brushes are used. Glittering effect is extended using silver and golden colors. Texture wall paints may also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this type of paint are that one coat economically produces a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches in the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are that they Collect dust and are difficult to restore to a smooth finish. These materials are available as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and may be applied to wallboard as well as plaster to produce textured effects such as random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.