Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I'm sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50'. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don't have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100' extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don't want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it's a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I'll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil'ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I'm talking about. Don't worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won't hurt it. Basically what you're looking for is a good, solid foundation of existing paint that is stable and still strongly bonded to the car. Many times an original factory paint job, even after decades will meet these criteria. In this section are some tips on techniques and tools that make it easier to paint your house than ever before - not the way the "pro" does, perhaps, but with much the same results.
STENCILING. You may want designs on the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in some of the rooms or hallway. You may buy or make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made of lightweight paper which will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to use, as it will depend a great deal on the surface over which you want to put the stenciled designs. Generally a heavy paint is used, so that it will not spread under the stencil while you are applying it. Limewash - Made from slaked lime and water, this paint is good for porous surfaces such as brickwork, render and plaster and gives a chalky finish. It is available from specialist companies. Following a European directive, the British paint industry has reduced VOCs in two stages, the second of which came into force in January last year. Complementary colors are opposites, and if you look at a color wheel, they are directly across from each other. While complementary colors may seem kind of mysterious to a novice, you just have to bring to mind Christmas to find a great example that is familiar to everyone, red and green.By simply making these colors a little paler, you can make this color palette work really well. Color tones are important, because rust and moss, while still being red and green, do not scream 'Christmas'. If your choice of tones is bold, you will create an eye popping design. However, it is common to get off course.