Flat or Dead-Flat Oil - Provides a completely flat, oil-based finish. Generally used on walls but not suitable for areas of high wear. Now here comes the fun part doors and wood work. This is where most people opt to use latex which is a huge mistake. Your home is your biggest investment don't cut corners on it's aesthetics. You want the finish on your woodwork to stand out from the walls especially if you have crown moulding or waynes coating. Don't be fooled by water based products that claim to give the look and finish of oil. It's just good marketing preying on people's fears of painting with oil. Don't believe the hype as those samples they show you have 3 or 4 coats that have been professionally sprayed in a dust free environment. You will not get the same results I can promise you that. You have a choice of semi-gloss or gloss finish. I prefer gloss because to me it gives you a bit more durability and shine. Either one will be fine for your project. Now let's get started. Set up costs are normally included with any home improvement job, painting separate times for complete exterior painting can essentially cost double, unless agreed before work begins in painting quote.
There is still no standard labelling scheme for paint. The blue globe label, pioneered by B&Q, led to VOC reduction on the mass market and has been adopted by other brands, while the European Ecolabel, recognised in 15 EU member states, looks like a flower and appears on brands such as Earthborn. Germany also has a Blue Angel label and there is a green Nordic Swan as well. You will find more detailed information on most of the paint company's websites, as well as a wealth of practical and design advice. The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. Knock down texture is basically a orange peel that is sprayed on and allowed to "set-up" for a minute or two then gently "knocked down" by running a 6" drywall knife over it, "knocking down" the surface of the texture. Although knock down is a flattened version of orange peel, I suggest you do not use a spray can of orange peel, the knock down comes in its own spray can and the results are much better, again experiment before spraying it on the wall. However, If ever you apply any of the textures to the wall and are not satisfied with the results, wash the texture off immediately before it dries, then allow the wall to dry and try it again. Once you have the texture applied to your liking and you have allowed it to dry, you may want to paint the patches a couple of time before painting the entire wall, especially for walls where the paint to be applied will have some sheen. Multiple coats on these areas will make them blend in, unnoticeable, with the rest of the wall. You will know if the patches need more coats of paint, because the patch/texture will have absorbed the paint causing the spot to look duller than the rest of the existing wall. TEMPERATURE OF COLOR. Colors have temperature, referred to as warm or cool. In painting, reds, yellows and oranges are referred to as warm colors and blues, violets and greens are referred to as cool colors. One of the biggest lessons you will ever learn about color temperature though, is that the appearance of color can change drastically depending on its surroundings. For instance, a certain yellow would appear much hotter if it were surrounded by a violet then say an orange. Another important lesson in color temperature: Warm colors will advance in a painting and cool colors recede.