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Plaster. New dry plaster in good condition, which is to be finished with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a few "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat over these areas may be sufficient.
The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it.
Are the contours rough or concealed?
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When you plan with split complementary colors, you begin with a single reference color. Next, choose a color from either edge of the complementary color and use it. While the complementary color scheme is a little more obvious, this scheme can fail totally if you just use paler versions of your warm colors. By the same token, picking a a warm undertone for the main contrasting color and combining it with two cool tones will showcase the warm tone.
Painting ceiling does not require premium paint. You can use flat $15 to $20 ceiling paint. I use Sherwin Williams PRO-MAR 200. Painting ceiling requires a lot of physical work and plenty of drop cloths. If you are not up for the challenge or have very high ceilings contacted a professional will prove to be a smart move.
If you are a Spring (Light and Warm), your colors are like the first daffodil that blooms each year. They have clear and delicate colors with golden undertones. The best Spring clothing colors to wear are bright colors such as turquoise, salmon and watermelon. Colors to avoid are red, white or certain shades of pink. The best accessories are in the shades of gold, bronze, coral and turquoise.
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