Basically what you're looking for is a good, solid foundation of existing paint that is stable and still strongly bonded to the car. Many times an original factory paint job, even after decades will meet these criteria. Special Surfaces. WHITEWASH. Whitewashes and lime paints must be thin when applied. In fact, best results will be obtained if the application is so thin that the surface to which it is applied may easily be seen through the film while it is wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats will give better results than one thick coat. Building a monochromatic theme simply uses a single color in graduating shades like cream, beige and brown. It is hard to go wrong with this color palette, so everyone can use it successfully. But unless variations of the one color used are handled with flair, this can be an unexciting look.
The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. By far, the most important characteristic in determining whether you are Warm or Cool is your hair color. If you can't determine your exact eye or skin tone, then your hair color will provide the answer. Why? It frames your face! We've devised a simple, full proof way to determine whether you are Light or Deep. Look at your overall complexion, eye and hair color. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lightest and 10 being the deepest, determine where you fit. So, a 1 would be the palest Nordic complexion with light blond hair. A 10 would be the deepest ebony skin tone and dark or black hair. So, for example: most Mediterranean and Middle Easterners have dark eyes and deep skin and are, therefore, Deep. Most Northern Europeans have blonde hair and light eyes and are Light. Where do you fall? Give yourself a number. If you fall anywhere from 1 to 4 then you are a Light. If you are 5 or greater you are on the Deep side. The area covered by a gallon of whitewash depends upon the nature of the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will cover about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, and about 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned will make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, the amount of each ingredient should be reduced proportionately.