Also, when checking the paint, be realistic and don't ignore areas just for the sake of convenience. It will cost you more in time and money later. Typically if one area of the paint is cracked or peeling, then the paint on the entire car is suspect. Maybe the rest of the car just hasn't quite reached that point of decay, but it will shortly. So if you only fix areas that look bad, you'll likely find that you wasted a paint job when the other areas start to crack or peel in a year or two. The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it. Some manufacturers recommend their vinyl paints for interior as well as exterior use; others say no, not so good. There are vinyls made specifically for interiors.
So how does a paint company accomplish this color hypnosis of potential customers? Well, it starts with the sample card. Have you ever noticed how the brightest, most saturated color sample cards are always the first row you see in a paint display? Well you guessed it... paint companies are playing with a loaded deck (of sample cards, that is)! So lets start with Warm and Cool. When thinking about Warm, think about a desert panorama of gold, brown and earth tones. When thinking about Cool think of colors in the artic such as gray, black, white or think of the deep blue sea such as deep blues, blue greens and turquoise. Everyone can wear just about any color, the difference is in the shade of the color. When thinking of clothing, makeup or accessories, visualize Cool as a color with a drop of silvery-blue. Visualize Warm as a color with a drop of gold. For example, if you put a drop of gold to a red sweater it becomes a Warm red, but if you put a drop of silvery blue it becomes a Cool red. At a minimum you want to remove all the chrome from the car. Take off both front and rear bumpers. If your Mustang has bumperettes that are body color be sure to bring them along so they can get sprayed at the same time as the rest of the car. Remove all rocker, hood and trunk molding. Same for wheel well molding and all emblems. This would be a good time to order some new emblems and attachment hardware. Also spend some time cleaning up all the chrome with #0000 steel wool. Nothing looks worse on a fresh paint job then faded emblems and corroded, cloudy chrome. Step five: pick your colors and start applying them to your penciled outlined images...make sure to mix the paints with a little Galkyd. Painting right out the tube is probably a bad idea, and it'll take forever to dry. Mix the Galkyd pretty evenly with the paint until you reach your desired thickness of paint. Less Galkyd keeps the paint thick. More makes it thinner. A safe start for a painting subject is a still life, like a bowl of fruit. No matter what you do...within reason...it'll look cool. You do not have to make a twig brown or an apple red just because nature says so. Use your imagination. Do something different. Collectors over time like to watch you evolve painting by painting anyway. So don't worry if your first painting stinks in your mind. It'll be interesting later once you're great. And by the way, most famous paintings have an under drawing, so they've used this layout technique I mention above. Sorry to tell you, most inspired paintings were planned out with pencil first. They did not happen spontaneously. They were built logically and in a defined order so that the end result looks right.