Note: How to use an airless paint sprayer. I'm sure the guy at the rental store showed you how to use the airless (typically with his limited experience of actually painting a house), so hopefully I can offer you a couple new ideas on how to paint your home using an airless paint sprayer. When you first get the airless home, set it in the middle of the area that you would like to start painting. Typically the length of the hose is around 50'. Stretch out the hose prior to painting so that you don't have to worry about unraveling it while you are painting on a ladder. It is a good idea to have a 100' extension cord so that you can bring the airless anywhere you wish to paint without any restrictions. Tip: before you plug in the airless into the extension cord, MAKE SURE THE AIRLESS IS OFF! You don't want the airless to start pumping without paint! Now, when you go to set up the airless, before you turn it on, it's a good rule of thumb to have a second empty bucket next to your bucket of paint. I'll explain why in a second. Place both buckets side by side and place the intake hose (with the wire mesh filter end) into your 5 gallon bucket of paint while the primer hose (usually a lot smaller, about the size of a pencil'ish) is placed in the empty bucket of paint. Before you turn on the machine make sure that the airless is set to prime the machine first. There is a primer valve that you can rotate between prime and paint. A good way to see if the valve is set to prime or paint is to try this little test prior to turning the machine on. While turning the valve clockwise a couple times you will notice that the valve handle will separate from the machine in one position (leaving a slight crack between the valve and machine) while the other position the valve is close to the machine. The position in which the valve is separated from the machine is considered the primer position. Do this multiple times to see what I'm talking about. Don't worry if you keep on spinning the valve, you can spin it a million times in one direction and it won't hurt it.
When choosing colours for exterior surfaces, consider the style of the brickwork or masonry of your home along with the colours used on nearby buildings, so as to pick colours that are sympathetic to these surroundings. Colours for fences and sheds should be selected with the same criteria in mind.
Limewash - Made from slaked lime and water, this paint is good for porous surfaces such as brickwork, render and plaster and gives a chalky finish. It is available from specialist companies.
Today, it is increasingly easy to source ecologically sound paints, as most specialist ranges, such as Ecos, Earthborn, Georgina Barrow and Auro are available via mail order. There is a wealth of colour options in these pre-mixed ranges that include lush shades and muted palettes, reflecting their natural ingredients. Ecos continues to lead the field. It has recently developed Atmosphere Purifying Paint, which absorbs and neutralises volatile chemicals, solvents and VOCs from the atmosphere in a home.
Is some color dominating?
Concrete Floors. Two general types of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and the finish cannot be patched without the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel of the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade where there is no moisture present.
There are 2 methods for using primer to aid in color coverage. In the first case, when applying light color paint to a darker wall color, you can maximize your color coverage by applying a white primer coat before applying your new paint. In the second case, when painting dark color paint onto a lighter wall color, maximize your color coverage by having your primer "tinted" the same color as your new paint. Many people are surprised to learn that this is possible. But the fact is, your local paint retailer will happily add any color they carry to any primer you want (thereby "tinting" it) for free!