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The second part of preparation is surface prep, it addresses covering the surfaces you do not want to get any paint on. A little plastic sheeting will go along way to keeping paint off of floors, window coverings, handrails, cabinets, counter tops, etc... And, if you are not confident with your ability to paint a straight line next to door casing, baseboards, cabinets or hardware protect these surfaces using masking tape. There are two basic types of masking tape white/yellow and blue. The white tape sticks to surfaces better but, can pull off finishes on cabinets or stained woodwork. Blue tape usually will not pull off finishes but, does not stick as well, this will probably be the tape to use for most applications. Always wipe down or dust the surface you will be masking to assure the best tape adhesion possible. If you use blue tape you may need to re-rub down the tape before painting next to it, only mask off areas with blue tape that you will be painting for a given day. With either tapes, do not assume the are a force field that paint will not penetrate, use them as a reference and dry brush the paint next to the edge of the tape and avoid soaking the edge of the tape with a lot of paint, this will cause the paint to "bleed" through giving you an undesired look. If you will need to apply multiple coats of paint, on the first coat, paint as close to the tape as you can, not really getting paint on the tape. With the second coat or a one coat application, you can use the tape more of like a paint barrier and get a little more paint on the tape if you immediately remove each section of tape after painting the section, this will keep the paint from sitting on the tape and "bleeding" behind it. Also, if you get a lot of paint on the tape it is not good to let the paint dry on the tape because some paints (especially the glossier paints) will peel if allowed to dried, with the tape when it is pulled off. White tape should not be left on for longer than a couple of days and I suggest not leaving it on more than a day in areas that receive long periods of direct sunlight. Blue tape can be left on for days, if it will stay on, there again it does not stick as well and may need rubbed down again immediately before painting up next to it.



How warm does it have to be in order to paint your home? For most paints it typically has to be 37 degrees or warmer in order to paint the exterior of your house. Now if you are painting two coats of paint on your house and it is 55 degrees or cooler for the day, it is a good idea to paint the first coat one day and apply the second coat the day after. If you live in a really dry climate, like Denver, and your painting in the summer months, you can defiantly apply two coats in one day. However, the more humid climates in the south, it is still recommended to paint only one coat per day.



After the siding of your home is painted you can now start on painting the trim. There are a couple different ways you can go about painting the trim of your house. The first way is to mask off all of the trim so that you can merely spray the trim color on to your house, and the second way is to roll the trim by hand. If you are the only person painting the house I would recommend rolling the trim by hand. The reason being is because it takes a long time to mask off all of the trim on your home compared to just rolling the face of the trim boards. If you have multiple people, it would be faster to have the helpers mask everything off while you start spraying the trim color.


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If a desired shade is not obtainable in custom-or ready-mixed paints, white paints may be tinted with colors-in-oil. To do this, mix the color-in-oil with a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and stir this into the white paint, a little at a time. If a blended color is desired, more than one color may be added, such as a chrome green and chrome yellow pigments to produce a lettuce green shade.



Step six: once you get all the layers just like you like, let it dry thoroughly for several days. Now take black and apply the shadows with your clean brush in keeping with the laws of shadow and light like you've learned earlier. If you put too much, wipe it back with a Q-tip or a rag until it looks like a shadow. Make sure you're putting shadows on top of only dry under layers. Always clean your brushes in between colors to keep the colors isolated and pure too. You don't want blue in your shadows, for example. Study my paintings if you wish because I do a lot of distinct shadows and I light things like vases, leaves, birds, fruit, etc. in ways that I think will stand out to you. Like if I paint a vase the bottom of the vase is darker than the top. Just like in real life. This applies to any shape whether it be a face or an apple or a vase. Also look at my backgrounds, as I've done a lot of them. Notice how each background is a multitude of layers to give it a finished and complicated look. Glazes allow me to reach this end. When I started out I didn't know what I was doing and friends and family thought I was crazy. And the very same people act like they knew I'd make it now that I have. Oh well, it's the way of the world. But stick with it and you'll be enlightened and inspired over time!



Dogs Playing Cards. If you live in the United States, you have seen and most likely own at least one depiction of the famous Dogs Playing Cards paintings that were painted in the early years of the Twentieth Century. Did you know that there are actually sixteen of these paintings altogether? They were commissioned in 1903 by a company called Brown and Bigelow to be used as advertising for their cigars. The artist, C.M. Coolidge, had no idea that his works would become famous American icons. Though considered relatively cheap home décor today, the original oil paintings are worth quite a bit. On February 15, 2005, the originals of two in the set, A Bold Bluff and Waterloo, were auctioned together for $590,400. Before that time, the most ever paid for a Coolidge was $74,000.